How to Check a Guitar Before Buying: New and Used Guitar Checklist
Ten minutes of checking can save you from an expensive mistake. Take this checklist to the store or to a used-guitar meeting.

What to bring
- A tuner (or a tuner app)
- A pick
- For electrics: a small amp or headphone amp and a cable (unless the seller provides one)
- A phone torch for looking inside acoustic guitars
- If possible, a friend who plays
1. General condition
- Look along the body for cracks, especially around the bridge, sound hole and the lower edges on acoustic guitars.
- Check that the bridge is not lifting: try to slide a piece of paper under the back edge of an acoustic bridge. If it goes in, walk away or negotiate a repair.
- Check the headstock joint and neck heel for cracks or glue lines — a repaired headstock break is a big deal.
- Dings and scratches on the finish are cosmetic; cracks are not.
2. The neck
- Sight down the neck from the headstock like aiming a rifle. It should be straight or with a very slight forward bow — not twisted.
- Press the 6th string at the 1st fret and at the last fret. Look at the gap at the 7th–8th fret: it should be tiny (about a business card's thickness).
- Check the truss rod adjusts (if you are allowed to) — a seized truss rod is a serious problem.
- On a used guitar, run your hand along the edges of the fretboard to feel for sharp fret ends (common with dry wood).
3. Frets and playability
- Play every fret on every string, slowly. Listen for buzzing or dead notes.
- Look for deep grooves worn into the frets under the first few strings — they may need a costly fret level or refret.
- Check the action: at the 12th fret, the gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the low E string should be around 2–2.5 mm on an acoustic and 1.5–2 mm on an electric. Much higher means hard work for your fingers.
- On acoustics, if the action is high and the saddle is already very low, the neck may need a reset — expensive.
4. Tuning and intonation
- Tune the guitar and play for a few minutes. Retune — does it drift quickly?
- Play the 12th-fret harmonic, then the fretted note at the 12th fret. On the tuner, they should read the same (intonation).
- Bend a few notes and check it comes back to pitch.
- Turn each tuning peg: it should feel smooth, not loose or grinding.
5. Electronics (electric and electro-acoustic)
- Plug in and try every pickup position on the selector switch.
- Turn each volume and tone knob through the full range — crackling means dirty or worn pots (usually a cheap fix).
- Wiggle the cable in the output jack. Cutting out means a loose jack.
- Listen for excessive hum. Some hum is normal with single-coil pickups; it should drop when you touch the strings.
- On electro-acoustics, check the preamp battery and the built-in tuner.
6. Buying used: extra checks
- Ask why they are selling, how long they have owned it and if it has been repaired.
- Check the serial number and model against the manufacturer's website to spot fakes of popular brands.
- Meet in a safe public place, or at the seller's home with a friend. Use a payment method with some protection.
- Compare prices with recent sold listings for the same model.
- The neck is twisted or badly bowed and the truss rod will not correct it
- There are cracks in the neck or headstock
- The bridge is lifting on an acoustic
- Frets are badly worn and the price does not reflect it
- The seller will not let you play it
Frequently asked questions
What is a normal action height?
At the 12th fret, roughly 2–2.5 mm on the low E and 1.5–2 mm on the high E for acoustics, and about 1.5–2 mm for electrics. Lower is easier to play but may buzz.
Is fret buzz a reason not to buy?
Not always. Buzz is often fixed by a simple setup. Buzz on one fret everywhere, or grooved frets, may need more expensive fretwork.

